What are the major fashion trends emerging for winter 2004 and spring 2005?
In fact, fashion trends as such are becoming more and more fragmented. We can almost talk about such a stage where there are NO major trends, just thousand of possibilities depending on your mood and personality. However, something that we see much more of is the tailored jacket for women, the sports jacket for men and accessories in pink.
The tailored jacket
The tailored SB jacket looks like being the season's hottest key item for womenswear, slotting perfectly into two of autumn's key trends, the new demure ladylike mood and the more rustic equestrian look. Watch for the introduction of more decorative fabrics such as velvet, taffetas and jacquards as we move towards party and Christmas.
© WGSN 2004 Intermix New York
The sports jacket
The new mood for a smarter tailored silhouette translates through to menswear, where the structured blazer or sports jacket is set to become this season's top key item.
© WGSN 2004 Mulberry London
Accessories in pink
A whole range of pretty dusted pinks is proving to be the perfect palette for transitional accessories, having an impact on everything from ladylike courts and bags through to casual shoes and boots.
© WGSN 2004 Clarks London
Key trends across from the fashion sector:
prim, ladylike dressing
tweed fabrics for tailoring
bows as key detail
ponchos and shrugs
belted coats
pencil skirts
boho-ethnic prints
country checks and corduroy for men
aged/beaten up denim for men
slick, colourful sportswear pieces
padded outerwear
How well do fashion trends translate to travel retail markets – do the latest trends and styles sell as well as the classic designs do?
I believe that fashion trends translate well to the travel retail market, the problem is that there are not many trendy fashion stores at travel locations. If someone would dare to create another ZARA or H&M in airports, they would be very busy!
And tell me: why should people be more conservative when travelling than when downtown?
How can you predict which items will sell well in travel retail?
Look at what is successful in domestic retail and ask yourself: “Would I buy this if I am going on a trip?”
What can be done to encourage people to purchase fashion goods at airports and other tax-free shops?
It would help sales a great deal if prices came down. Imagine that you did not have to pack all of your suitcase, but could buy your travel wear at the airport. I believe that there are a lot of innovative and creative thinking still to be done in the industry.
Which markets (locations) are most valuable to fashion retailers and why?
Obviously a fashion store needs more space than other retailers, so locations where rents are lower would be attractive. Also, a good fashion store has a great atmosphere and decoration – this is hard to translate in many airports which are not human-focused. There is still a huge potential to use more local brands, which Hong Kong Airport has tried as some of the first. People like to discover local flavour and local brands, unfortunately, most retailers are too risk-adverse to go that direction.
What are the major jewellery trends emerging for winter 2004 and spring 2005?
Glamour defines womenswear this season. Feminine styles are given a dose of luxury laden with pearls and jewels. Confident use of colour, quirky colour statements and decorative elements are handcrafted or used in their natural form.
© WGSN 2004 Laura Ashley
Another key trend is Kiddy craft – a crafty style with handmade looks decorating garments and accessories.
© WGSN 2004 Gymboree
What do you think about the market for men’s jewellery? Is their potential for growth there?
Yes, I think that there is a huge potential which could be explored, especially with the younger looks.
© WGSN 2004 Geox
Do you think that celebrities such as David Beckham have made it more acceptable for men to wear jewellery items?
David Beckham is a foremost advocate for the wave of men called Metrosexuals. To be metrosexual basically means being heterosexual but adopting looks from the gay community, including dressing up, wearing make-up and jewels. So, yes, he has had a huge impact, but it would never have affected so many if it was not for the Metrosexual wave.
Are you seeing a demand from male consumers for jewellery products, designed especially for them?
Custom-made jewellery is a huge trend for both men and women. The more personalized the better.
What kinds of style / pieces do you predict would be successful or would sell well to men?
Active styling is all about hybrid products; wearable technology ergonomic shapes and challenging innovative design features. As men are more function-oriented than women, anything which has a second purpose would be a hit. I could also imagine pieces which have a health benefit for your body would be successful. Or jewels which bring you luck and prosperity, inspired by the asian belief.
Is it something that women would buy for their boyfriends/husbands?
One of my girlfriends just bought her husband a “stress-control” necklace. A lot of women would do the same, if these kind of products existed.
What do you predict to be the revenue-generating potential of men’s jewellery in travel retail?
If done well, the potential is huge!
Why do you think consumers are buying more and more natural cosmetic products right now – why are they so popular?
Natural cosmetics are part of a trend towards nature, just think of the enormous success of organic foods in the recent years.
Are consumers turning their backs on other brands?
Traditional brands are becoming squeezed between success of natural products and niche brands on one side and what we call CHOICE-FATIQUE on the other. Many consumers are simply fed up by too many brands, too much advertising and too little time. This is particularly true in the sophisticated markets, much less in the developing world. Show me Song+Kelly at Chengi Airport in Singapore and Bottoms in Kastrup Copenhagen Airport and I will spend money.
Is it hard to niche brands like natural cosmetics companies Carole Franck and Jurlique to gain a footing in travel retail?
Fun and retro styling in make-up as small companies aim to carve out a niche and be seen in the battle with the megabrands to win shelf space. I think that consumers would be delighted to find more niche brands in travel retail. Sitting in the airport is often when you have the time for trying out something new!
Does having a following in the domestic markets provide a platform for you as you enter travel retail?
It helps, but it would also be exciting to see more special brands and products in travel retail as people are not really buying because of lower prices any more.
Will consumers pay more for natural cosmetics products?
Yes, just like organic food is more expensive than fast food. However, the huge commercial success starts when prices are affordable.
Describe the types of consumers that buy natural cosmetics products?
This thinking is that women who "know that the secrets of beauty are best sourced from nature and not from chemicals," who "prefer not to be anyone's guinea pig" but who do not want "organic-for-the-sake-of-it".
Do you think the trend for natural products will continue?
Yes, but the next will be Nature & Technology - highlighting the strength of the nature-blended-with-technology beginning now. Nature blended with science, beauty product makers are also plundering ancient civilisations to find 'modern' answers to skincare needs that do not wreck the ecological balance of the areas from which the ingredients are drawn.
What kind of growth do you predict for natural cosmetics brands as a whole over the next few years?
More and more women will look for the natural ingredients or Nature & Technology. Also, male skincare is moving away from its purely shaving-liked base to more faithfully replicate a women's skincare approach. Men will also find natural cosmetics attractive.
About TFWA Asia Pacific
Asia/Pacific is to be the focus of the Tax Free World Association’s efforts in 2004, the Association’s management committee has revealed. Following the cancellation of last year’s TFWA Asia Pacific show owing to the outbreak of SARS, the organisation is to place a greater emphasis on the region this year, aided by a new Singapore office to open in May.
The Association said that an Asia/Pacific office, first mooted at a management committee meeting during the TFWA World Exhibition in Cannes last year, will allow it to improve its focus on the region and attract greater numbers of buyers to its Singapore show, held each year in May. TFWA also announced that it would be appointing a dedicated sales manager before this year’s show to sell exhibition space and services at the 2004 event.
TFWA CEO Andrew Ford and marketing director Jean Marc Caubet are to go on a promotional tour of the region to drive key buyer numbers, and Ford is to speak at the Japan Duty Free Shops Association annual general meeting in February.
TFWA revealed that its research for the coming year would also focus on the Asia/Pacific region after members expressed “overwhelming interest” in data on Asian nationalities in a poll conducted last year. The Association said the research was justified as the region has enormous growth potential and exhibits distinctive consumer characteristics which differ greatly from the more mature duty-free markets.
Mette Kristine Oustrup of Style-Vision in France was invited to give a presentation on "The Future of Airport Retail Design: How to translate consumer insights into retail practice?"
Andrew Ford, CEO of TFWA with Mette Kristine Oustrup, Style-Vision